|
|
|
|
Updated: 6-6-09
DISCLAIMER: Legal mumbo jumbo always comes first. Look, y'all.... Converting from a stock stator to alternator using ANYBODY'S plans naturally entails some trial and error and "custom" fabrication... When I work on things, "custom" usually refers to a lot of cussing and then beating the shit out of something until it fits/ works. Check out the info on this page, search the net for more information on the topic and when you're ready, plunge on in. You cannot know enough when you decide to make a major alteration to your trusty wing. MY way is most definitely not the ONLY way... In fact, I encourage you to check out different methods for achieving the goal (a charging Goldwing) and then choosing your best course of action. Do your research, take your time, and feel free to ask questions. Good luck! =)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Now on to the Show!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You've come to this page because you have a 'Wing with a charging problem, or perhaps know of someone who does... Or maybe out of curiosity for curiosity's sake. I am not the original architect of these plans. When a friend of mine blew out his stator (for the second time in a year), he and I sat out on a two month internet search for the infamous "car alternator swap" we had heard about years ago. After digging around, we finally came across the fella whose motorcycle pictures are on this page. He provided some Polaroids and hand written notes about the process that I, with my raggedy "paint" program, digitized and converted into jpeg format. I have been sending out the plans for years, but finally got around to putting them on this site. I hope they are helpful! Ride Safe, Ride FREE!
NEW! 6/24/05 A link to Dupli-tech for a professional stator to alternator kit running off of the crank. I LOVE how they have "inverted" the alternator pulley INTO the cam guard and use the cam guard itself to provide support! This eliminates the need for external bracing and moves the pulleys and belt INTO the cam guard itself for a very clean and neat appearance. Cheaper than replacing your stator and MUCH easier and cheaper should you ever need to replace your alternator. Nicely done, guys!
Special
Thanks to the Unknown Architect of these Plans!
|
The schematics are pretty complete. I made some revisions to them after I got them, but didn't change the schematics in case you wanted to retain their original premise.
The original plans use a plastic sewing machine pulley bolted to the end of the cam shaft head. The pulley is pretty large, necessitating it's mounting outside of the cam cover. The original "architect" of the plans also had the original cam gear modified to accept a key way. He said that this would make sure the pulley didn't twist on the head. I saw this additional step as unnecessary and more costly because you'd have to get the cam gear machined. Instead, I used a longer bolt, and a piece of black (water) pipe as a spacer between the cam gear and back of the pulley. The bolt threads through the pipe and into the original cam gear bolt hole. A large washer followed by a lock washer keeps everything tight. The pulley used in the plans is mounted externally, as I said, and is larger in diameter to increase the revolutions of the alternator pulley. I figure an increase of two-fold or so at the alternator pulley. While this would be OK for a motorcycle mainly used for "around town", I think that most any 4 cylinder motorcycle should provide enough rpm's at speed to keep the alternator at peak speed. I know that my Wing, and Kawi (both 4 cylinders) operate at around 4,000 rpm's at 60-65 mph. I think that a "regular" sized pulley could even be employed if you were attaching this to a 2 cylinder motorcycle such as a Harley. Their servicar conversions (used for police work) have a belt set up similar to my plans except the assembly is mounted longitudinally in the frame with the alternator in the front of the motor.
The benefits of using a smaller pulley (as opposed to the sewing machine pulley) are as follows:
1. A smaller pulley allows you to do less cutting on the cam cover.
2. A "regular" pulley is easier to find, and I personally don't like the idea of using a plastic pulley, regardless of its strength.
I recommend a smaller
diameter alternator in order to save precious foot space on the
right side of the bike. I like the single wire Chevy alternators
because they're cheap and have a built in regulator, and you can
find them anywhere. The drawback to the Chevy alternator, though,
is that it's pretty "plump". Toyota, Honda Civic, and
I'm told, Chevy Cavalier alternators are considerably smaller in
diameter. I mentioned the internal regulator in the Chevy
alternator.... This isn't a "have to have" item as you
can use the motorcycle's regulator and rectifier (and all other
12 volt system items) as you would with the original stator. I
ran the wire from the alternator across the block and into the
original 3-wire hook-up located on the lower left side of the
bike near the battery (on an '81 Wing). If you haven't done so,
get rid of the original plastic 3- wire connection. They're prone
to overheating and building increased resistance (which may have
fried the stator in the first place).
JC Whitney mail order sells a cheap spotlight
mounting bracket of a two piece design that's made to fit around
1" tubing. I think they're about 6 bucks or so. I used them,
bolted to a piece of flat steel, as the alternator mount. You can
come up with something similar pretty cheap. Let's see.... I'm
trying to make sure I have covered most of the discrepancies. ..
I think so... Look over the plans and if you have any questions,
please feel free to give me a holler.
