Last Update 11/14/2009

  UPDATED!

Navel Jelly Slimes Gunk!	Charging System Diagnosis & Procedure	Cheap and Easy wheel Bearing Removal
Well NUTZ! Ya' Need a well nut!	Fogged Glasses and Shield Fix!
Holy Sinking Side stands, Bat Man!!	SEAFOAM! Great stuff!
Stop Light Trigger	Turn a $4.00 Sheepskin Washing Mitt into a SEAT COVER!

PLEASE NOTE: Some of the information in this page is from my personal experience. Other information has been copied from reputable sources on the internet to try and bring bits and pieces of information together in one place. I do everything possible to verify an author's work and to give them credit for making this info available to those of us tryin' to keep our Wings on the road. I would like to thank all of the riders out there who have taken the time to share their tech tips and tricks and encourage you to contribute if you have a tech tip or trick of your own. Thanks and safe riding! ~Squirts

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Rebuilding the GL 1000/1100 Water Pump 
The following article submitted by Sarge to the Four Cylinder Wings website on May 1, 2001

List of tools needed:

v       8mm socket (1/4? deep well recommended)
v       10mm socket (1/4? deep well recommended)
v       3-inch extension (1/4? recommended)
v       Ratchet (1/4? recommended)
v       Gasket scraper (preferred, dull screwdriver may be used)
v       Pan (for draining oil/radiator fluid)
v       Rags and/or speedi-dry

Parts needed:

v       (1) Water pump gasket and o-ring set
Ø       (1) Front Cover Gasket 11391-371-306
Ø       (1) Water Pump Cover Gasket 11396-371-306
Ø       (1) Water Pump O-Ring 91356-706-000
Ø       (1) Water Pump O-Ring 91305-KT7-003
Ø       (2) Front Cover O-Rings 91312-371-013
v       (1) Mechanical Seal (from a Honda CX500 Turbo) 19217-657-023
v       (1) Mechanical Seal C/R 3952
v       (2) Shaft Bearings 6000 2RS

NOTE:
The bearings and one seal (C/R) 3952 are not available from Honda; you can get these from your local bearing distributor. The bearings are fairly common ones and will most likely be on the shelf. The seal on the other hand is not acommon one and may need to be ordered. Every o-ring is available from either the Honda dealer or any auto parts house (if you're lucky). I would recommend the dealer as the o-rings are metric and not every auto parts house carries a full selection of metric.  The following is a recounting of my experiences and yours may be different. The bike has no body panels and due to this I am unaware if it is necessary to remove any body panels to complete this task.

Drain the oil and discard correctly.

Remove faux tank.

Drain the radiator fluid and discard correctly. Empty overflow bottle also.

Remove the bottom radiator hose.

Remove the water pump cap, held on with four 8mm bolts. You do not need to remove the small section held on with two bolts, the section the hose connects to. (If you do remove it, you will need an o-ring not on the list.)

Remove the front engine cover. This is held on with nine bolts with 8mm heads. One located on the top throttle side is recessed whereas all the others are not.  This one is easily missed if you are not careful.  Also the top couple will
require a thin socket due to interference from the frame cross rail. This is why I recommend a ¼" drive.  When the engine cover comes off pay careful attention to the location of o-rings, collars and dowel pins. All of mine stayed put but all came out with just a touch of my fingers.

Remove seal located in the front of the engine, which the water pump shaft slides into. This was not on the original list but mine was oval so I added it.

Turn the front engine cover over and remove the three 10mm bolts securing the water pump in.  You may need to tap the water pump out from the front. I used a socket and a soft blow hammer.  By now it was obvious that the cooling system
had never been flushed as it was home to a major amount of crud and deposits.   BTW, so far all of this is covered within the Honda service manual. From here on we go further than the manual suggests.

A small ¾ moon clip on the impeller shaft (located on the backside of the water pump) secures the impeller.  Carefully press this off. You don't want to hurt the shaft or the groove for the clip.  There is no part number listed for
the clip, as I was unable to find a replacement at any parts house. The available ones were either too large or too small. I reused the clip on mine (not really recommended).  A regular outside retaining ring of the correct diameter would suffice.  The ears would be in no danger of impacting anything that I could determine.  Remove the impeller.  You will most likely need to  'assist' it out.  Use a soft blow hammer such as a brass one or a plastic no-bounce one.  Mine was gunked enough I had to use a drift to drive it completely out.  Pay attention as the impeller comes out.  There is a collar on
the forward section of the shaft just aft of the impeller blades.  Make sure you remember its size.

Now you need to pull the water pump bearings from the water pump. There are two within it.  The forward one pulls out towards you and the other is pushed out thru the pump.  Use a socket, which just fits within the space. There is another collar between the bearings, again, remember the size. As you press this bearing out you are also pressing out the mechanical seal in the backside of the water pump.

(As you work clean the inside of the covers, the water pump mount area, etc. as well as possible. Clean all mating and gasket surfaces. My oil-bathed areas had a very slight sludge accumulation, next to nothing really. However the water passage areas were nasty. It appeared as if the bike had never had a radiator flush since it was new in 1981.)

On the water pump itself, remove the two o-rings and replace with new ones.  Insert the water pump into the front engine cover and secure with the three 10mm bolts.

Insert the new bearings into the water pump. DO NOT forget to place the collar in between these bearings. I inserted the forward bearing, then slide the impeller thru this and slide the collar over the shaft. Then I inserted the rear-most bearing over the shaft into the water pump. In order to make seating the bearings easier I used a lightweight oil (3 in 1 oil). Insert the mechanical seal (larger one, appears to have a spring inside of it) on top of this bearing. Seat the impeller completely and slide the ¾ moon clip in the groove.

Fit new gaskets on the rear of the front engine cover and water pump mounting surface (front of front engine cover). I used a very slight amount of silicon to hold the front engine cover gasket on. If you do this ensure no silicon is overlapping into the inner edges. I let it dry over night and trimmed, as needed the next morning.  As I used very small dabs there was nothing to trim.

Replace the old o-rings on the forward area of the engine along with any collars as needed. Should be two upper corners for the water passages, two around collars, and one on the water pump mount area. Insert mechanical seal
into front of engine where water pump shaft inserts.

Slide the front engine cover back onto to engine, being careful to line up dowels. Lightly tap the cover down snug. Insert and snug bolts down finger tight.

Replace the lower radiator hose back upon the radiator. Insert the water inlet portion of the water pump cover into the radiator hose and swivel the water pump cover into place against the front engine cover. Insert and finger tighten the bolts, which secure the cover.

Look around and ensure you have no left over parts. If no left over parts are found (which is what we hope happens!), then tighten the bolts. Once again the upper throttle side bolts require the use of a thin drive (1/4" works great) socket. I personally tighten every other one around the cover in gradual steps to prevent warping.

Fill system with 50/50 mix of anti-freeze/water and look for leaks. If none are found start the motor and monitor the flow, adding mixture as needed. If you are changing to something like Evans NPG, follow the instructions included with the Evans fluid. Once the system appears to be topped off, fill the overflow tank as needed, cap it and the radiator. Replace the faux tank and go for a ride. Check periodically for leaks and ensure the overflow bottle level is between the minimum and maximum level marks. Enjoy!

Total time should be less than one hour. (Bike with no extra bodywork needing removed.)

Recommendations:

Use a piece of cardboard as a template to hold the bolts as both the water pump cover and the front engine cover are held on with several different sizes. This will save you some time and worry when it comes time to replace everything.

Have plenty of rags and/or speedi-dry on hand, as no matter how well you drain the bike, there is more oil and water inside waiting for you!

Take your time. If there is sludge within the oil-bathed areas, consider a motor flush afterwards.  Inspect the sludge for metal particles.

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Parts Which are Interchangable between the GL 1000 and 1100 (Compliments to Steve Saunder's Goldwing Page)

Quite a few parts are interchangeable between the GL1100 & GL1000. The GL1200 in comparison uses very few bits from the parts bin. Some of the parts shared between the GL1000 & GL1100 are; Front & rear engine cover gaskets, valves & valve springs (up to 1981), valve seals, rocker cover gaskets & sealing washers, timing belts, timing belt cover gaskets, oil filter & drain plug, clutch springs, exhaust gaskets, ignition switch assembly (1978, serial no. 4104123 & up), starter motor brushes, starter clutch rollers, front & rear wheel bearings, front brake master cylinder & reservoir repair kits (up to 1981), front brake pads (78-81) front brake pads on the 75-77 GL1000 are the same as rear pads on 80-81 GL1100, brake lever 79-81, clutch lever 78-81, rear lamp unit lens 79-83. Heavy duty aftermarket replacement stators will fit either model as well. I've probably omitted plenty of other items, but you get the general idea.

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Goldwing Starter Clutch Woes

Many of the emails I recieve relate to the starter and/ or starter mechanism on a Goldwing. Starter testing removal and replacement is covered in my section titled "Removing/ Rebuilding a Goldwing Starter". THIS section will talk about the starter clutch.

Now, most folks haven't a clue as to how their old wing actually starts. They turn on the ignition, press the starter button and, vroom, they're off and going... However, the starter is just one piece of the puzzle when it comes to firing up your trusty wing.

"Worn or corroded rollers will often cause the starter to spin without rotating the engine, or emit a loud screeching noise as the engine is being rotated" (Honda Service Manual, page 17-8). Under normal operation, the starter motor is attached to a starter cog which sits in a starter chain which is connected to the clutch hub/ housing. The starter motor is energized which spins the cog, chain and clutch hub, thus turning over the engine.

Sometimes, especially if a bike has been sitting for awhile, the "rollers" which sit within the starter clutch (picture 1) become stuck (Corroded is what the service manual calls it), Under normal operation, once the starter clutch spins, three rollers (Honda's term not mine) press outward which in turn engage the crank through the clutch hub assembly. Once the engine begins to fire, its revolutions per minute overtake the hub assembly which disengages it. The complete (internal) starting system is quite complex (picture 2).

picture 1  picture 2

Clutch hub/ roller assembly and charging schematic: Honda Service Manual pages 17-8; 16-8 respectively. Click to enlarge. Image will open in new window.

I have had very good luck in getting stuck and gunked up rollers to engage the hub assembly without having to tear into the engine. Here's how I do it:

1. Bike in neutral and secure
2. Battery charger (if available) in place and operating to prevent batttery drain
3. Ignition kill switch "off"
4. Key switch "on"
5. Press and hold the starter button for 2-3 seconds
6. Release after 2-3 seconds and begin again
7. Repeat this procedure until the rollers engage or approximately five minutes passes
8. STOP this procedure after no more than five minutes if rollers have not engaged
9. If after approximately five minutes, rollers have not broken free, rest bike for 15-20 minutes
10. After resting, begin cycle again (It may take several cycles for this to work)
11. Once the rollers engage, repeat the procedure several more times
12. Change the oil and filter
13. Ride the bike for about 20 miles and change the oil again (If the rollers have gunked up, there is a good chance oil valleys and other crevices within the engine are gunked up as well.
14. BUMMER: If the above procedures do not work, unfortunately it looks like a trip to your local Honda shop is in order. The rollers may be so gunked up and/ or worn that the engine will have to come out for service. Other internal problems such as worn drive gears, drive chain, sprockets and starter clutch assembly may be the culprit. The engine will need to be removed and partially disassembled to check these parts.

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Cheap and Easy Wheel Bearing Removal! (Special thanks to Ed for this tip!)

Ever tried to remove the front wheel bearings.???  I have come across an easy way to get em out... Ya need to go to the hardware store and get ya one of dem concrete anchors ( the kind that expand when the bolt is tightened)...  Git yer self one that is just a bit smaller than the bearing ID (jess bring the new bearings to da store wit ya)...  To remove the old uns, jes put the anchor inta the old bearing, but leave a bit of the anchor part exposed... Grab the anchor with pliers while tightening the bolt... Once she be tight, jes flip the wheel over and use a good ole piece of dowel to drive the bearing (and anchor) out...  Werks real good and ya can jes save the anchor bolt setup fer the next time...  Git yerself a whole set of these anchor bolts and you be in business fer all sorts of different bearings...

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Goldwing Saddle Bag Fix (Special thanks to John for this tip!)

A cheap and easy fix for broken or missing saddle bag clamps is to purchase a set of boat fender hooks.

The fender hook above is sold by Dock Accents for only $2.50 per PAIR! Over the years, I'll bet I've heard the "my saddle bag lid flew off" story about a dozen times... Goldwings are great motorcycles, but I have to admit that the saddle bag locks leave something to be desired. =)

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Goldwing Starter Removal (GL1000-GL1200)

Starter removal from a Wing is pretty straightforward: Before you remove the starter, however, make sure it needs to be removed. I say this because Honda starter relays are notorious for getting old and rusting up over time. They may look good on the outside, but the solenoid inside the case starts to stick. If you think the starter solenoid may be bad and want to check the relay first, do the following:

1. Carefully check the positive and negative connections to the battery. The positive or hot wire connects to the solenoid itself. The negative or ground wire usually is connected to the back side of the rear engine mount. The rear engine mount is the triangular shaped doo-hickey with two bolts at the top and one at the bottom. It connects the engine to the frame via a long bolt running clear through to the other side. (Another common problem is that over time the nut holding the mounting bolt works loose which lessens the contact of the ground wire to the frame. This is exhibited by a dragging starter or no starter at all.) Also, there is a spade fuse located in the starter solenoid housing. If this spade fuse fails, you will not have a starter. (You can pick up a new one at any Honda dealer for about 3 bux and can rig it should you ever blow one by wiring a thin strand of wire between the poles where the fuse normally sits. Make sure to find out why the fuse blew in the first place.)
2. To check the starter solenoid, without a tester, turn on the bike and hit the start button. You should hear an audible CLICK from the solenoid. If you do not, tap it with something heavy and do it again. Sometimes, if it is sticking, a nice little tap will unstick it. If it still does not click, remove the solenoid and check it with a multi-meter.
3. To check it with a multi-meter, set the meter to 12 volt, and connect the two leads to each pole of the solenoid. It should read as closed in a normal position. Next, make a jumper wire out of a piece of wire and connect it to the positive side of the battery. Run the multi-meter leads, ground to ground and hot to the opposite lead on the solenoid. Touch the first pole on the solenoid with the jumper wire. You should hear a click and see the voltage register on the meter. When the bike is not running, look for a voltage reading of 11volts or so (at least). If you don't hear a click and nothing registers on the meter, it's a pretty good bet the solenoid is dead.
4. IF the battery is good, the battery connections to the frame, starter solenoid AND starter are tight and corrosion free, AND the solenoid checks out, you can safely move to the starter itself.  

Starter/ electrical system close up: Honda Service Manual page 17-3. Click to enlarge. Image will open in new window.

  ~~~~STARTER REMOVAL~~~~

The Honda service manual says you have to remove the engine to replace the starter. Other folks say you have to drop the exhaust to get the starter off and on. I've gotten 'em off without dropping the exhaust before, but it takes patience and time and I have NEVER removed an engine to replace a starter...SHEESH! 

This process will be a little different if your motorcycle has running boards or other “goodies” attached to it. (you’ll need to get those goodies out of your way first).

NOW, the starter can usually be removed without dropping the exhaust IF you have the following: Skinny fingers, lots of patience and a ¼ drive ratchet, deep well 8 mm socket and a swivel extension. (I’m a pretty big dude, but I have gotten the “art” down to being able to remove a starter without goofing with the exhaust in about 10 minutes).

If you CANNOT remove the starter without dropping the exhaust (it gets in the way of the front bottom starter bolt), do the following:

1. Motorcycle on center stand.

2. Disconnect starter cable from starter AND positive/ negative wires from battery (Just to be certain) =)

3. Key off and make sure the bike is sitting firmly on the center stand (Don’t wanna’ be a Goldwing waffle if the thing decides to fall over on ya’)

4. Remove ALL four exhaust bolts from the bottom of the head. Shoot them with WD 40 or some other penetrant before trying to get ‘em off, because they will pretty much be “welded” in place if they haven’t been removed in awhile. The bolts are 11mm.

5. Once all four bolts are off, take something long and pry down on the exhaust. You are trying to move the exhaust down about two-three inches to get it out of the way of the front, bottom starter bolt. If the exhaust is stubborn, loosen the muffler mounting bolt holding the muffler onto the bike (located near the rear of the bike).

6. Using an 8mm socket and ratchet, remove the top and bottom starter bolts. (Remember, “Lefty loosey---Righty tighty”… I’m not being a smart ass… I STILL get turned around when I am laying under a bike)  =)

7. NOW, the starter will probably be “stuck” into the engine at this point. It won’t want to wiggle much… To remove it from the engine itself, I use a short spade screwdriver and gently pry back on the starter where it enters the block. Sometimes, a couple of gentle whacks with a rubber hammer will help loosen it.

8. Once loosened, the starter will pull out of the engine block. It’s a little tricky, but move it around until it drops free from the engine block and falls down between the block and exhaust pipes.

9. Once the starter is out of the block, gently reach into the block with your index finger. You will feel a chain and a COG. Make sure the cog is sitting IN the chain. I’ve never had it happen, but I guess the starter cog COULD somehow fall into the engine block if you’re not careful (NOT a good thing!)

10. When you go to replace the starter, reverse the procedure. Be AWARE, however, that the shaft of the starter has to fit INTO the starter cog which is sitting in the drive chain. The cog only goes onto the starter shaft a couple of ways so be patient. You will know when the starter is correctly seated against the engine block when the starter bolt holes line up. If ya’ have it, rub a small dab of anti-seize compound on the starter bolts before inserting.

11. Reverse the procedure, making sure everything is tightened.

12. You can usually successfully “rebuild” a Honda starter two or three times before it is beyond saving. If you’re not gonna’ rebuild the starter DON’T throw it away. Those critters still have value even if they are “dead”. (Worth about 10- 20 bux on Ebay even if they’re dead)=) 

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Stoplight "Trigger"

(Special Thanks to MarkT's Tech Tips for the following)

Rationale

• How many times have you sat at a traffic light and waited for it to change? 

  And waited.  And waited.  And waited. 

  Betcha got tired of waiting, figured the sensor is seriously FUBAR'd, looked both ways, and took off just as The Man came around the corner.  Even with your caution, you legally violated and he can write you a ticket - which you may then waste your time and possibly your money and points arguing with The Judge.

  Or you can make a right turn, and a yewee, and jump through hoops avoiding violating in a maneuver which is much more dangerous than just running the light.

  Or you can install this magnet.  And never wait for a badly adjusted traffic light sensor again.  Or almost never.  At least I've never found one yet this magnet won't trip.

  One caveat.  This magnet is POWERFUL.  Makes you look like a locomotive to the sensor.  But you may have to pick off Harley parts stuck to it.  And drive around manhole covers so you don't suck them off and create hazards for the cages (nyuk nyuk).

Cost

• About ten bucks.  Or a little more if you need the magnet shipped.

Time

• 1 hour.

Materials

• 150-lb pull magnet from Harbor Freight at
• http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36904
• 4 large zip ties

Tools

• pliers, sidecutter

Process

• Unscrew the screweye off the magnet.  Stick it to the frame next to the rear exhaust hanger.  Secure it with 4 zip ties to ensure it won't get jarred off.  Since I have welding equipment, I just welded on a bracket and secured it to the cross member that holds the sidestand.

Use

• The sensors are usually under the corners of the rectangle cut in the pavement in front of the intersection.  Drive right over and stop on top of one of the forward corners.  You won't wait long for the light to change.

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Rebuilding a Goldwing Starter (This article refers to the 1000-1200 Goldwings)

Yes... You can (in most cases) rebuild the starter yourself. Before you go digging into the starter, though, be sure to rule out any associated hardware first. Four items of concern need to be checked before digging into the starter:

1. The "kill switch" located on the handlebar.
2. The starter button.
3. The starter relay.
4. "Hot" wire going into starter.

If any of the three are defective you will not hear an audible "click" when you depress the starter button. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR A CLICK or the starter does not attempt to spin, check items 1-4 first...

The kill switch and starter button can be checked by taking the assembly apart and using a multi-meter to measure voltage going into and away from the switches. If those check out "OK" move to the starter relay (MANY times, the starter relay and not the starter is the problem). The starter relay is located under the left side cover near the battery. I can't remember off-hand, but it should be a round or square gizmo with a "hot' wire running directly to it from the battery. Double check the connections going into the relay. Also, check to make sure the "master" fuse located on the starter relay is still good and hasn't been blown. This fuse looks like a metal "spade" approximately 1 inch in length. It's designed to burn through if it gets too hot. If the starter relay checks out, move on to the starter. Most of the time, if you replace the starter brushes, you will have a dependable starter for a few more years (the replacement brushes aren't as "hard" and will wear out quicker).

Starter/ electrical system close up: Honda Service Manual page 17-3. Click to enlarge. Image will open in new window.

See "Goldwing starter removal" to see how the starter comes out without having to remove the engine... SHEESH!

I recommend before going on, that you head to the Honda shop and buy their "Starter Rebuild Kit".... The "kit" is usually no more than new brushes and springs, but hopefully, this is all you'll need. You should be able to get this kit for around 20 bucks at your handy Hondoo dealership.

Once the starter is out, you'll notice that the starter is built in three pieces:

Starter/ electrical system close up: Honda Service Manual page 17-3. Click to enlarge. Image will open in new window.

The "cone" (where the output shaft is), the body (which houses the armature and field coil), and the rear (which is where the brushes are located). A word of caution! Keep a hammer punch handy because the bolts holding the starter together have screw heads that are easily stripped. I normally hammer punch 'em right from the start to break 'em loose (before I break 'em off)  =) On a bench or table top, remove the long screws holding the starter together. After the screws are removed, grasp the starter in your hands and gently but firmly pull the starter apart. Concentrate on removing the "butt" of the starter first, as this is the end where the brushes are located. Don't freak if the starter smells "burned" when you pull it apart. (That's normal... To a degree) =)  There's lotsa' goop and yucky stuff inside... The starter brushes will be mounted to a plate sitting inside the "butt". Replacement is pretty straightforward. Just unscrew the originals and insert the newbies.

CAUTION: There are lots of little shims located at the base of the armature. Make sure you put the exact number of shims back in that you took out or the armature can bind making for a very sad afternoon.

NNNNOOOWWW, up to this point, we've assumed the reason for your starter woes are worn brushes...... HOWEVER, armatures DO wear out (unfortunately).... To check your armature, do the following things:

Remove the armature from the case (Be careful not to twist the soldered connection that allows the hot wire from the battery to be bolted to the starter). Don't forget your spacers (shims)! Measure the diameter of the commutator and height of the segments above the insulation. (The commutator is the doo hickey on the end that the brushes sit against... You should have a minimum height of 2 mm between the insulation and top of the bars). If the space is thinner than 2 mm, you can use a very thin hacksaw blade (I use a Dremel tool... It's easier) and undercut the spaces... Inspect the commutator bars for discoloration. Discoloration along the edge of the bars indicates high resistance (Not good)... Bars discolored  in PAIRS indicate grounded or open armature coils (Also not good!)... Don't use emery or sandpaper on the commutator bars as this will rough 'em up and eat up the starter brushes in no time.  Check for continuity between pairs of commutator bars, and also between commutator bars and armature shaft. REPLACE the starter motor if armature coils are open, or shorted to the armature shaft.

IF the armature checks out, move onto the Field Coil... The field coil is the grouping of wires wound inside the starter case... Check for continuity from the cable terminal to the motor case and from the cable terminal to the brush wire. REPLACE the starter motor if the field coil does not show continuity, or if it is shorted to the motor case. OKAY....... Ya' got a lot more than you expecting, huh?  =)  Take your time, be gentle, and watch all of your little bits n' pieces, and you should be able to squeeze at least another 40,000 miles out of your starter before you have to replace it. I rebuilt mine THREE times over 12 years before the commutator was so worn that I couldn't use a hack saw on it anymore. During those years, I was able to put nearly 120,000 trouble-free miles on my scooter.

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Well NUTZ! Ya' Need a well nut!

Special thanks to the Rat Bike Zone for the following tip!

Need to get a fastener into a bolt hole with stripped threads or one in sheet metal or plastic where a nut can't be used for some reason? For $2, you can get a *well nut* from Home Depot. You'll find them in the hardware isle in the little clear plastic bins. It's a rubber plug with a machine screw through it and metal washers at both ends. There are various sizes, you'll want 1/2" for a oil pan drain bolt for example. You stick it into the stripped hole, and tighten it, which contracts the washers together and makes the rubber plug bulge in the middle until it seals the hole. They're very effective if there's any thread at all left; the rubber conforms into all the little grooves with the grip-o-death. Highly vibration resistant. A good choice for an unstressed area where normal fasteners vibrate loose, like the horn mounting bracket.

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Electrical Analyzer on Da' Cheap

GL 1200 Owners (1984-1988)...Did you know that at one time, Honda had a massive recall for GL 1200s because of pooped out stators? Yep, in fact Honda replaced defective stators on all early 1200s for free. You can tell if your bike had been recalled by looking on the lower left side of the motor (starter side) for three little dots in the form of a triangle. If ya' see that, then the stator has been replaced... If not, ya' better watch out! One of the easiest, and most inexpensive, ways that I know of to keep track of the charging system of ANY motorcycle is by buying a handy little gadget called an "Auto Electrical Analyzer" available at Radio Shack.      There are other gizmos out there made specifically for motorcycles which do the same thing, but they cost upwards of forty bucks to purchase! The electrical analyzer available from Radio Shack costs a measley $5.95!! The operation of the unit is simple: It has three diodes, red, yellow, and green, which are paired with resistors of different values. As the electrical system of your scooter changes, depending on the voltage, the lights will light up and tell you how you're doing. The one I use on my GL 1100 (1981), simply plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet that I mounted on the dash above my radio (I have one of them Cycle Sound units). I can always tell how my charging unit is doing. In two years of operation, and in all kinds of weather, my analyzer has kept good watch over my electrical system.      I n fact, just two months ago it helped save irreparable damage to my stator when I was tooling down the road and noticed that my light went straight to RED. I immediately stopped the bike, pulled the side cover, and noticed that a three prong plug connector had gotten hot and melted, allowing the wires to ground out against each other. A pair of wire cutters and electrical tape allowed me to fix the problem and go on my way. I really believe in this unit! After having told friends of this handy little tool, many have installed similar units on their bikes to monitor their systems. If you don't have a cigarette lighter receptacle, don't sweat it. Simply take a small hack saw blade and cut the plug end off of the analyzer. (There are only two wires to the whole unit: positive and negative). "Hard wire" the hot and cold wires to your battery, silicone the open end of the analyzer, and stick a piece of velcro on the bottom of it to wherever you it want it placed... Voila' you have a cheap and dependable electrical analyzer for your scooter! The part number for the analyzer is: 22-1635A and should be available at any Radio Shack store.

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Foggy Fix

Get tired of having the inside of your full face helmet or your glasses fog up? Here's a cheap and easy "fix" that I have used for years. Take any old can of shaving cream and spread a liberal amount of the squishy stuff onto the inside of the shield or lens. Let it stand a minute or so and then wipe it off. I do the same with my glasses and it works remarkably well! Yeah, I know there are products out there made specifically to address fogging problems, but what the hey, we all shave (sometimes) and why spend bucks for a "specialty" brand of something when you can get away with a comparable fix for free?

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Krusty Krome!

Have chrome that's getting old and pitted? Here's a cheap and relatively easy way to bring back some of its luster: Raid your wife's tin foil box... YEP, grab the Reynold's wrap! Tear off a sheet and then rub it vigorously, shiny side down, onto the chrome goody ya' want to shine up. I guarantee that you'll be surprised at the results! I don't know how it works, but it does! And if it doesn't, you could always wad it up and chew on it for awhile! YUMMY!

Another relatively cheap way to bring back aluminum and chrome finishes is to go out and buy Navel Jelly (Not YOUR navel jelly! We'll let your loved one deal with that). Navel Jelly is an excellent and inexpensive way to "de-rustify" otherwise nasty chrome and "de-oxidize" otherwise yucky aluminum pieces. It really works well! Be careful of how you use the jellies, though. They ARE corrosive. Follow their directions and you should be pleased with the results.

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Parking Puck

Have one of them bikes that sink into the asphalt whenever you park it on a hot day? My Kawi does that! My old employer didn't like the little holes my bike was leaving and I had to do something about it.... My solution? I could have boogied to the local motorcycle shop and paid ten bucks for a product known as a "Big Foot" (Looks like a really big foot. too!).

 

Instead, I motored to the local Hardware store and bought an electrical box block off plate. The plate is a square, galvanized piece of metal with a hole in each corner (depending on the type you get). It's thick enough to place under your side stand and does the job of keeping your scooter from sinking into the asphalt. An added benefit of the plate are the corner holes... Rummage through your boot closet and find a boot lace. Tie one end through the plate hole and make a big loop with the other. Now, when you use it, loop the loop over your handle bar. drop the plate onto the parking lot and use your "piggies" to position it under the scoot. Upon leaving, reverse the process. The plate is thin enough to fit into your back pocket and can even be "contoured" to fit snuggly against your butt (if that's what you're into). :-)

Cheap ass alternatives (My favorites, of course). Click to enlarge. Image will open in new window.

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Have tips you'd like to share? Send me some mail and I'll post them here for the whole world to see! Come on, I know I'm not the only cheap ass out here! Send your ideas, tips, and other schtuff to me for addition to this site.